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How
to fix coving
Tools for the job
Sponge and Water, Adhesive, Mitre Box, Tape Measure, Fine Tooth, Saw, Pencil, Hammer and Nails, Trimming Knife, Mixing Tool, Caulker, Scraper
STEP 1
Preparing
Remove any paper from wall or ceiling (as all surfaces must be clean, sound and dry). In my opinion there is no need to scratch the the wall and ceiling surface in a criss-cross pattern as that only makes a unnecessary mess, just apply a coat of sealer (PVA based or diluted texture sealed) to the surfaces and allow this to dry. Pencil some guidelines along both the ceiling and the wall, (85mm from the wall/ceiling angle for 127mm coving which is allowing 2mm for the adhesive), but this will vary with the different makes so follow the manufactures instructions.
Measuring the coving
First measure the length of one wall first. Transfer the
measurements taken to the front of the coving. Mark the position of the cut
required.
STEP 3
Cutting the coving
Cutting a length of coving to fit into a corner is called an internal mitre cut (see picture below). Ensuring that the coving is well supported, use the mitre box and cut into the curve. Lightly sandpaper the cut edges to remove paper burrs. External cuts are required for chimneybreasts and around boxing. Remember to allow extra length when cutting coving which have external corners as the mitre will overhang the corners (see picture below)
Fixing the coving
Apply sealer to the coving along cut edges and allow 5
minutes to dry. Before placing the coving into position you may wish to fit supporting nails along the pencil line on the wall
(taking care that any nails
do not puncture pipes or electric cables). Spread the adhesive generously onto
the back edges of the coving using a scraper on both the wall and ceiling sides
(The caulker is used to hold the adhesive on and removing excess adhesive from
the scraper). Push coving firmly into
place and tack more nails to bottom of coving if necessary to support.
I never need more than 3 nails for a length of coving. If the cove is moving
under it own weight the adhesive maybe mixed to thin. Fill
joints with adhesive then remove any excess adhesive with the filling knife and
then clean surplus with a damp sponge.
STEP 5
Decoration
Allow a minimum of 24 hours for the adhesive to dry. Carefully remove supporting nails and fill holes. The adhesive can then be sanded to give a smooth finish to the joints and sharpen the corners. Take care not to damage the paper surface when doing this. You can then paint using emulsion or oil-based paints. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for porous surfaces
If you have any further questions please email me at wsh@freeuk.com
